Surroundings
Your neighborhood
Villanova
Villanova (Bidhanòa in Sardinian), one of the four historical districts of Cagliari, is among the most charming and pleasant areas to visit.
A touch of history
The district lies at the foot of the eastern slope of the hill where Castello stands. This area has been inhabited since Roman times, as evidenced by a system of cisterns beneath Piazza San Giacomo.
In the 12th and 13th centuries, it was inhabited by Campidanese farmers who initially traded with the residents of Castello and later decided to settle here and cultivate the surrounding fields.
Villanova grew as a small village within the city, and it is still characterized today by simple, low, colorful houses known as “bascius”, which once featured small internal courtyards. Until the early decades of the 20th century, the neighborhood’s agricultural roots were evident in the many gardens and vineyards that surrounded it.
The removal of the modest city walls in the late 19th century enabled the district and the city itself to expand, leading to the creation of modern neighborhoods in the eastern area.
A little over a century ago, Villanova was known as the district of “is panetteras” (the bakers)—skilled artisans who were paid by the Crown for their work, which was considered a public service.
The district, today
Today, the district features its old section, located between Via Garibaldi and the embankment of Viale Regina Elena.
Strolling through its characteristic narrow streets and alleys, adorned with plants, flowers, crafts, and simple artworks displayed on balconies by competing locals, you’ll find fruit and vegetable vendors, artisanal shops, and workshops of silversmiths, carpenters, and tanners housed in the neighborhood’s typical homes. Traces of the devastation caused by Anglo-American bombings during World War II are still visible.
During Holy Week, the streets come alive with Cagliaritans and tourists attending processions organized by the confraternities of Solitude and the Most Holy Crucifix, which are based in Villanova.
Suggested itinerary
Starting from Piazza Costituzione, we find in all its grandeur the Bastione Saint Remy, the meeting point of the three districts of La Marina, Castello, and, of course, Villanova.
From here, by walking along the elegant Via Sulis, lined with boutiques and flower-adorned balconies and dominated by the imposing Palazzo Valdès with its Art Nouveau style, you reach Piazza San Giacomo, bordered on one side by the parish church of San Giacomo, alongside the Oratory of the Souls in Purgatory and the Oratory of the Most Holy Crucifix.
From Piazza San Giacomo, you can take Via San Domenico and reach a charming square surrounded by colorful little houses and delightful outdoor cafés, perfectly embodying the spirit of the neighborhood.
Here, a visit to the Cloister of San Domenico is a must, along with the adjacent crypt – the only remaining structures of the ancient Dominican convent, which was destroyed during the bombings of 1943. The convent was once home to the Tribunal of the Holy Inquisition and the Royal Printing Press. It still preserves the beautiful Gothic-Catalan ribbed vaults and Renaissance arches.
Villanova also boasts other notable churches, such as the Basilica of San Saturnino, dedicated to the patron saint of the city. It is the oldest church in Cagliari and one of the oldest Early Christian monuments in Sardinia.
Inside, you can admire the wooden crucifix donated by the artist Pinuccio Sciola.
Just a short walk away lies the Church of San Lucifero.
On Via San Giovanni, you will find the Church of San Giovanni, the Church of San Cesello, and the Church of San Mauro.
Now it’s time to lose yourself in the cobbled streets and savor the silence of this timeless neighborhood.
Wander along the picturesque Via San Giovanni, Via Piccioni, Via San Giacomo, Via Giardini, and their many alleys.
Continue towards Via San Saturnino, the street art hub, and then walk along one of the most scenic promenades in Cagliari, the Terrapieno, from Viale Regina Elena to the Public Gardens, one of the city’s green lungs that houses the Municipal Art Gallery.
Restaurants and Bistrots
Amid Villanova’s winding streets, you’ll discover charming, cozy, and tranquil spots perfect for a break.
• Chry’s Cat Café, the first cat café in Sardinia. In a cozy and private setting, six charming cats entertain guests. The café is the perfect spot for a break with a hot chocolate, tea, or other sweet and savory treats, all accompanied by the charm and sweetness of the cats.
• Vineria Villanova, opened in December 2022, this wine bar has already captivated tourists and locals with its passion for wine. Perfect for a pre-dinner drink.
• I Sarti del Gusto, an elegant gourmet restaurant offering tasting menus and business lunches. Located at Vico Sulis 1/A.
• Pirani La Brasserie, located on the elegant Via Sulis. A name that’s a guarantee of quality. Open from morning to evening, it’s perfect for breakfast, aperitifs, lunch, and dinner.
• Bar Florio, located in Piazza San Domenico, offers organic and gluten-free products. I love having breakfast here when the city is still waking up.
• Feel, the city’s first Urban Restaurant & Cocktail bar. The menu features simple Mediterranean dishes with a modern twist. It is located at Via Piccioni 2.
• Red Fox, a historic pub on Via San Giovanni, offers a wide selection of beers from around the world and excellent cuisine.
